# 27
Among many unnecessary things to have come to my attention during the past week, the decision of Collins to drop the word ‘Aerodrome’ from the next edition of their dictionary is the one I have found the most inimical and asinine. Apparently, in the opinion of some chinless researcher, the word has become obsolete. It will doubtless soon be followed into outer darkness by the words ‘Publisher’ and ‘Dictionary’.
Whether the plonkers at Collins get it or not, an aerodrome is a very special kind of place fully deserving a noun with a complex set of meanings and associations. Even at its simplest, an aerodrome is more than merely an ‘airfield’ and both are different in scale and purpose from an ‘airport’. Gatwick and Stansted are airports. Biggin Hill is an aerodrome. An aerodrome has to be, primarily, a large expanse of short grass, with or without a permanent runway. It should have at least one hangar and preferably be surrounded by a hedge. From a distance, a faded orange windsock signals its presence. Ideally, the windsock is the first thing you see from a country lane until you get close enough to glimpse the movement of propeller-driven aeroplanes through gaps in the hedgerow. If you are lucky, a Tiger Moth or a Dragon Rapide will be taxiing close by and the hedge will sway and heave dramatically in the prop-wash as the pilot turns into the wind and revs for take-off. At twilight, grey wraiths wheel ghostly flying machines bearing names like Hawker, Avro, Supermarine, Fairey and Sopwith out from the shadows and prepare them for flight. If the sun’s going down and the cloud base is getting lower by the minute and you’re looking for a place to land your Auster Aiglet or DH Chipmunk by visual flight rules, using only a compass and manual controls then - whether Mr Collins likes it or not - what you’re looking for is an aerodrome.
The word comes, of course, from the Greek. Aeros (air) and dromos, meaning a course for running races. It is a descendant of Hippodrome: hippos meaning horse combined with dromos - again. The French word is aérodrome and when you consider that the old Royal Flying Corps was operating on the Western Front when the RAF was formed in 1918, it clearly made sense to bring the word home. Even today, flights by British and French military aircraft over Libya are still termed sorties by both airforces, (from the French sortir – to go out).
The impending loss of ‘aerodrome’ is another depressing reminder of how impoverished the general public’s experience of flying has become. When did travel by aeroplane cease to be exciting, something to anticipate, to relish and enjoy? When did it crumple into the drab, dull, manipulated push and shove offered by Rien Air and Cheasy Jet?
There was a time – okay in my boyhood, long ago in the 1950s - when the prospect of flying caused genuine excitement. A thrill so great I sometimes had to run outside and stare up at the sky. The excitement was hardly lessened even if it was someone else who would actually be getting on the aeroplane. I can still recall a day when my family took Nana – my mother’s mother - to what was then London’s only airport at Heathrow. I was nine or maybe just ten years old. I was up at dawn, studying the high pink clouds, watching them float across the blue dome of the heavens like turreted castles and islands waiting to be explored. Flying promised to be the adventure that took you over the silver rim of a child’s horizon. The sky that morning looked ready for flight; Nana, regrettably, didn’t. Born in eighteen-eighty something, she was going to visit her sisters in Philadelphia. She had been there twice before, both times by sea. All the way to the airport she insisted that she didn’t hold with aviation; “If the Good Lord wanted us to fly, He’d have given us wings…” What a waste, I thought, letting her anywhere near an aeroplane.
For transatlantic flyers, Heathrow in those days consisted of a row of single-storey pre-fabricated huts, abandoned by the air-force at the end of the war. Inside these, I remember armchairs like those in our living room at home, cast-iron radiators and floors of scuffed brown linoleum. The few airlines on offer were represented by single desks, each displaying a small flag or a model aeroplane and a telephone. I coveted the models but would have settled for a flag. It was here that tickets were cursorily checked before passengers’ suitcases were carried - by hand - out through a single door at the back. And what a sight waited out there. Through the domestic scale, metal-framed, windows I glimpsed the slim elegance of a Lockheed Super-Constellation, beyond that a sturdy Douglas DC7 and taxiing in the far distance, the generous, gleaming, silver hull of an improbably large Boeing Stratocruiser. As it moved along, the Boeing dwarfed a line of Douglas DC3 Dakotas – or “tail-draggers” as they were being called because they lacked the nose wheel of more modern, post-war, designs. Mind you, there was one spectacularly daft effort – the early versions of the De Havilland Heron – which had a modern nose-wheel, but one which couldn’t retract. You could always identify a Heron – it droned across the sky appearing to have a drip of snot perpetually hanging from its nose.
In the far off ‘50s at Heathrow North, ‘Security’ and ‘Passport Control’ were at the far end of the hut where a man in uniform waited beside one of those waist-high rope barriers you still see sometimes in banks and post offices. Here, passengers said their goodbyes to the relatives who had accompanied them in droves. The experience of flying was such a novelty that everyone wanted to be in on it, even if all they could hope to do was just to wave and sniff, taking in the glamour and excitement of it all. Eyes were dabbed with handkerchiefs (no tissues in those days) and then we relatives obediently stood aside. The man unclipped the hook at the end of the rope and beckoned the anointed traveller through. No questions, no searches, they just had to be clutching a passport and a ticket.
Afterwards, everyone left behind stood on the grass outside the huts and watched through the wire fence as friends or loved ones were guided in a wandering crocodile across the tarmac to the mobile stairway which would lead them up, up and away into the cabin of their airliner.
My first chance to fly across the North Atlantic came sooner than I’d dared to hope. In the summer of 1960 I flew with my sister Sue to visit our parents in Washington DC which, in those days, didn’t even have an international airport. Eero Saarinen’s graceful terminal building for the new John Foster Dulles airport was then only at the design stage. So we flew to Baltimore instead. The airline had to be BOAC (British Overseas Airways Corporation; also known, fondly, as ‘Better On A Camel’). Our plane was a De Havilland Comet. The 4b version was newly into service by then and was still proudly the world’s first commercial jet-powered airliner. In England, the Boeing 707 was still only an approaching rumour.
Our little Comet probably carried about fifty or sixty passengers. Its successor, the 707, carried at least twice that number and became the definitive symbol of 1960s jet-set style and glamour. The gangway descending from a Boeing forms the essential backdrop to so many photos of Frank Sinatra, Liz Taylor, Sophia Loren…and eventually, The Beatles. Nowadays, lurking paparazzi snap celebrities in some generic VIP lounge or clock them strutting self-importantly past the throng of plebs filling the airport concourse. The actual aeroplane is no longer the all-important confirmation of their celebrity status because the airliner has lost its glamour. How do you get excited about an Airbus? It’s a flying tube. Getting on an Airbus 320 or a Boeing 737-800 at Gatwick has about the same allure as taking the Northern Line from Tooting Bec on a wet Monday.
All those years ago, on that forever shining summer morning, our tiny Comet fled west from Heathrow but at first only as far as Shannon on the Atlantic coast of Ireland. There, it took on board as much fuel as it could carry, metaphorically drew a few deep breaths, ignited its four Rolls-Royce Avon gas turbines, and roared into the sky. We climbed steadily away from the rocky coast, out over the estuary and the steel-grey ocean, up through the clouds until everything below us was white and everything above was blue. Only the tapering sweep of our wings remained reassuringly silver.
At Gander in Newfoundland, with the tanks drained of all but the maker’s name, we skimmed in low across the endless pines and landed gratefully to refuel. There followed a leisurely progress down the East Coast to Idlewild (now JFK) outside New York. Next, a stumpy-winged Lockheed Electra whined into the air and flew us down to Baltimore via – for some unaccountable reason – Wilmington in Delaware. But I didn’t care; flying was magnificent and the more take-offs and landings that were on offer, the happier I would be.
Those scruffy pre-fab huts at Heathrow North, the nationalised BOAC and its fleet of blue, white and silver Comets and Bristol Britannias all belonged to the post-war years of government-sponsored ‘Civil Aviation’. Now of course, in these modern, privatised and de-regulated, times the word civil (which does at least imply a semblance of courtesy) no longer applies as any sort of prefix to commercial aviation. The travelling public have become just so many credit cards waiting to be rinsed. Passengers are quantities to be searched, scanned, monitored, categorised and processed by airlines and airports. ‘Extra Charges’ pop-up here, there and everywhere so that operators can recover the margins given away to set the initial bait of low cost fares. Modern airports seem designed to sort, muster and control travellers as if they were tins of beans on conveyor-belts in a supermarket warehouse. Ideally, they’d like to palletise each plane-load of travellers, throw a net tightly over the lot, and load us via the cargo-hatches using a gigantic fork-lift.
Airports seem wilfully designed to deny travellers any view of even parked aircraft, let alone the runways. You might just see the nose cone and cockpit windows of your waiting Airbus shortly before you are expelled down some featureless tube straight into the aircraft’s cabin.
When and where did it all go wrong? Was it just me getting older that took the fun, the thrill and even the sense of anticipation out of flying? Only Peter Pan can fly forever with a child’s imagination, but am I wrong to want air travel to be more sensational than a journey into London on the 159 bus? We can’t just blame the impoverished experience on the advent of low-cost carriers. I flew to New York on Freddie Laker’s DC-10 Sky-Train in the early eighties and that wasn’t so grim. And the staff weren’t all entirely indifferent or plainly bored out of their skulls.
Airports seem to be run on the principle that security is only tight when it causes as much inconvenience as possible to as many people as possible. As a strategy to protect the public it is both blunt and gormless. The searches, the x-ray scanning of bags and making everyone remove their trouser belts and shoes and earrings…what does that do? Are we so witless that we cannot look along a line of two hundred passengers waiting for a holiday flight to the Algarve and point to the six who it might be wise to search? Why are we searching the other 194 and making grannies remove their shoes and young mothers hold up their baby’s bottle in a transparent plastic bag? If they only searched three in every hundred passengers they might at least search them properly. Instead, they search everyone equally badly. Grannies and granddads from Romford heading for Marbella with the grandchildren, are they likely to want to blow up the plane? I don’t think so – they wouldn’t threaten anyone, except maybe on a Saturday night down at the Dog & Bucket when they’ve had a few and West Ham have lost at home…again.
Every airport concourse should display a banner quoting the line Berthold Brecht gave to Arturo Ui; ‘We only want what’s best for you, and we know best what’s best for you.’ Manage your expectations downwards; forget all about comfort or excitement. Shut your mouth, close your eyes and open your wallet. From the moment you arrive at the departure airport to the moment you leave your destination airport you can forget all about comfort, enjoyment and dignity. They have all gone and will never return. Accept that you will wait endlessly in line for no apparent reason, or else be left fretting on uncomfortable chairs in overcrowded waiting areas. You can’t call them lounges (no ‘comfort’, remember?) and they are dominated by unnecessary ‘shopping opportunities’ – as if you aren’t already hauling enough crap to last the fortnight.
When your flight lights-up “Boarding” on the departures screen you begin the long trudge to an always distant gate. Accept that your plane will never go from any of the first 20 empty gates past which you have to trundle before finding the one allotted to you. Turn off your mind and accept tedium – the cabin-crew and ground staff of your airline already have, it’s the only way they can get through their working shift. They will herd you like cattle at the boarding gate, slowly checking your boarding passes and passports. When they are feeling particularly bored or grumpy they will pick on passengers at random and make them try to fit their hand luggage into the prescribed iron cage. If your bag fails to fit without a struggle expect to be publicly humiliated and charged an extra thirty or forty quid per bag. Cough up and in return you get to wait at the other end of the flight for your bag to be off-loaded (hopefully) and dumped onto a carousel – unless it’s now en route to Yokohama by mistake. Oh joy!
There follows another long wait which remains forever unexplained. Then you queue again to have those same boarding passes and passports checked. This is in case you have changed your identity or destination since they were last checked – at the other end of the same room. Stay calm and shuffle down the airless, sloping, tube which connects to the aircraft’s cabin. Here, the flight crew await. Just a glance at their poor skin conditions and podgy figures will shoot-down any lingering confidence you had in this ‘no frills’ airline. Before you can be seated, your paperwork is checked again. This is a precaution lest your DNA has reconfigured itself in the sloping tube and you have become someone else.
Finally, reluctantly, you turn and face the long, wide, low-ceilinged, cabin. No matter how far forward you thought you were in the queue, the plane is always already crowded. How did all these burly buggers get here first? You may well ask. They don’t waste time allocating seats anymore; apparently random seating is not much more time-consuming than any other method of filling the plane. Give up. “Sit down and belt up,” is the next instruction, followed by the improbable pantomime of the safety announcement – including totally not-reassuring details about lifejackets and oxygen masks. “…and follow the illuminated dots on the floor to the exits – which on this A320 Airbus are located here and here…” (Watch where she’s waving her arms, you idiots). The best you can hope for is that this grotty tube will get you to your destination without requiring additional oxygen, bracing yourself in the crash position or having to swim for it.
Between them, the security people, the airport managers, RienAir and CheasyJet have successfully kicked the proverbial out of any sense of adventure, romance or even enjoyment that once belonged to air travel. They advertise themselves as ‘No Frills’ and the experience they offer certainly delivers on that. And, sadly, there are now No Thrills either.